The Lure of the Chattooga

Originally published in the March/April 2005 issue of South Carolina Magazine.

To the uninitiated, the notion of catching a trout on a fly seems implausible. The leap of faith needed to accept that any creature – cold blooded or otherwise – could confuse a tiny configuration of feather, fur, and steel with food is enormous. A competent angler knows the importance of faith in determining success or failure. If you don’t expect your offering will fool a fish, then surely it won’t. But in fishing, as in many things in life, the only thing you eventually learn to expect is the unexpected.

So as I stood bare-legged in the frigid waters of the Chattooga River one spring morning with a fly rod and a dozen newly purchased dry flies, I dismissed any chance at success – as well as my faltering sanity. Yet, I loved the aesthetics of the sport – the cool, crystalline water in which I stood; the scent of Chattooga River Fly Fishing blooming mountain laurel; the intricacy of the tiny, hand-tied flies that I didn’t quite understand; the graceful arc of the cast. The whole idea of fly fishing appealed to me greatly, yet I doubted I could ever catch a trout. As each of my awkward casts sent the tiny dry fly into the swift current, I feigned interest in its journey as it bounced across the river’s surface – around exposed rocks, over bulging hydraulics, and through current seams. I also imagined how absurd it must have appeared to any creature lurking below. Then in mid thought, an angular-shaped object emerged from under the surface and my fly disappeared. Instinctively, I lifted the rod tip and I felt weight and the erratic pulse of a fish. Moments later after a short struggle, I lifted the writhing trout from the net and its cold eyes met mine. I am not sure which of us looked more surprised.

The fact that my first fly fishing success came on river like the Chattooga made it all that more special. One of the last remaining free-flowing rivers in the southern United States, the Chattooga begins its journey in the high country of North Carolina before becoming a forty-mile natural border between South Carolina and Georgia. Downstream of the Highway 28 Bridge, the river is best known for world-class whitewater rafting and paddling sports. Above that bridge, however, it is considered one of the top 100 trout streams in the United States, according to Trout Unlimited. The river is blessed with several characteristics that contribute to its blue-ribbon status: a canopy of giant oak and hemlock trees which provide natural shade and keeps water temperatures low; a steep downstream gradient with waterfalls and cascades which boosts the dissolved oxygen levels in the water; and a Federal “Wild and Scenic River” designation that serves as a buffer, protecting the river from human development.

The range of trout water stretches from the Ellicott Rock Wilderness Area at the North Carolina state line downstream to the highway 28 bridge in Oconee County. Rainbow and brown trout, the two species targeted by fly anglers, are stocked by the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources (SCDNR) in addition to a wild population of brown trout. The SCDNR has also instituted a “Delayed Harvest” program two years ago for the two miles of river upstream of the Hwy 28 Bridge. From November through May, only single-hook lures or flies may be used and all fish must be returned to the water unharmed. After May, all angling methods can be used and fish may then be harvested from the river. This new program brings anglers from all over the Southeast to the banks of the Chattooga.

There is easy access to the river at both Highway 28 and Burrell’s Ford Road, where there is also a campground. The Chattooga River Trail and Foothills Trail closely follow the river throughout the entire section of trout water, giving the adventurous angler many miles of solitude. Despite this relatively easy access, a day on the Chattooga is true a wilderness experience. There are no facilities along the river and the terrain can be tough and unforgiving. It is always a good idea to travel with someone, but if going alone, plan accordingly and let someone know where you are going to be.

Since that spring morning several years ago, I have caught and released many trout on the Chattooga River. And although I expect success more often than not, I am still humbled by how little I really do know. But each success is a tiny glimpse into to a mysterious underwater world that will never be completely understood. These days, I return all of the fish I catch back to the river, keeping only for myself a clue that might be the answer to the puzzle the next time I return. A river like the Chattooga never gives up its secrets easily. But you can steal one from time to time.