Tag Archives: Travel

CPCD #2 – Ausangate

This is my second CPCD post – this time from the city of Cusco, Peru.

Ian Plant and I just completed a four day, 40 mile trek to Peru’s Ausangate, one of the most sacred of mountains to the Incan people. This trek involved some serious high altitude hiking, with two passes along the trail exceeding 16,000 feet in elevation. This crappy phone cam image shows our tent on the first night of our trek. Neither of the two mountains shown in the background of the image are that of Ausangate, but I promise there will be later after I return home on the 18th.

Tomorrow, Ian flies back to the States while I hitch a train from Cusco to Machu Picchu. More to come later. Thanks for having a look.

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CPCD #1 – The Amazon

This is the first CPCD – Crappy Phone Cam Dispatch – from Puerto Maldanado, Peru.

First off, if you don’t know what a Crappy Phone Cam Dispatch (CPCD) is here is an explanation. Second, after eight days in the rainforest, I am still without my lost luggage. Yeah, that’s right – in the wettest, most humid, hottest, steamiest, sweatiest, muddiest, rainiest  place imaginable on the face of the Earth,  I had one set of clothes for the entire eight-plus days. The good news is that I should be getting my checked bag today when I fly to Cusco for the mountain phase of my Peru trip.

Here are a few crappy phone cam images from the Amazon. Enjoy.

Loading up the boats to head upriver

Our accommodations in Posadas Amazonas

A precocious scarlet macaw cleaning up after breakfast at the Tambopata Research Center

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Chasing Magic


During my trip to Iceland in 2011, I had every intention of making it to the beautiful Snaefells Peninsula to create a dramatic image of Kirkjufell (the mountain) and Kirkjufellsfoss (the waterfall). For one reason or other, I never made it to this part of Iceland and I didn’t give it much thought over the year that followed.

Last month, I had the pleasure of leading a workshop to Iceland with my co-leader Joe Rossbach and eleven great students. The day before the workshop began, Joe drove to Kirkjufell and caught some amazing light at sunset, all while I was hunkered down on another part of the island socked in with heavy clouds and spitting rain. The next day when he showed me his images from that evening, I congratulated him and then immediately hated him. I still do, Joe..

It took me four visits to this location (including once with the workshop group where we had nothing but clear skies) to finally get it right. No clouds, too many clouds, car trouble – there was always something wrong until this particular night. Surprisingly, I was still disappointed when I finally folded up the tripod around midnight and called it a long day. As good as the color and light was, it could have been so much better still. Seconds after this version was captured, the light shut down and the sky faded to a deep blue.

Kirkjufell is a beautifully-shaped, symmetrical mountain just west of Grundarfiord Bay. Danish sailors, who often frequented this part of the country, called the mountain “The Sugar Top.”

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Advice for Travelers: My Take

Over the past few years, photography has taken me all over the world to many fascinating places and countries. During my most recent trip to Switzerland and France, it occurred to me that I should write down some practical advice for travelers based on my own experiences. This is not a comprehensive checklist of “dos” and “donts” but rather a few subjective bits of advice to keep you out of trouble and to enhance the traveling experience. Enjoy.

The River Seine, Paris France

Don’t Be a Jerk

Yes, things are done differently here, but isn’t that the reason you came in the first place?  Instead of rudely wondering aloud how this isn’t how it’s done back home, embrace the many differences and experience something new for a change. For example, try some of the local food. The fact that it’s different from what you are used to doesn’t make it inferior. Laughing or scoffing at something new, only because it’s different, only makes you look like a narrow-minded, ignorant jerk.

Pack Light

Figure out what you think you’re going to need and then reduce it by a third. If you run out of clean clothes, you can always wash a few items in the river or a the hotel sink. In the rare instance where you need something that you didn’t bring, simply buy it locally or improvise. You will surprise yourself by how little you really need when traveling while the freedom from lugging around useless weight is exhilarating.

Foz do Iguassu, Brazil

Before You Leave, Do Some Research

I learned this the hard way. If I ever happen to meet you in person, buy me a beer and ask me about the time I narrowly escaped detainment after the Brazilian border police discovered I didn’t have have my required visa – AFTER I had already entered the country. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, but hopefully you will learn never to repeat the same mistake I made.

In addition to the important stuff – like having the right paperwork – check out the currency exchange rates, maps (Google Earth and Google Maps are great tools), and any travel advisories issued for the area you’re visiting.

Children at Laguna Village, Belize

Do Not Photograph Children Without Permission 

In many countries, this can get you into big trouble. You could be breaking a law and end up in jail. You could get shot or the crap beat out of you. All of these scenarios are sure to ruin your trip.

Learn some of the local language, even if only a few commonly-used phrases

This helps you get around a little and makes you appear fractionally less clueless than you actually are. Here are a few items you might want to consider:

Hello, Goodbye (exhibits good manners)

Thank you very much (better manners yet)

Where is the toilet? (for obvious reasons)

Help! Somebody call the police! (In case you really do need help or to recognize when it’s time to make a run for it).

Where in the world am I?

Get Lost!

No matter how well you plan, the plan will fail at some point. Things never go as planned. Never. Cancelled or delayed flights, getting sick, getting lost, bad weather, and unrealistic expectations are all part and parcel of traveling. Getting mad or upset doesn’t help, so I’ve conditioned myself to expect these things to happen and consider it as part of an adventure. Your own attitude about the little obstacles and predicaments will either make the trip exponentially better or worse. And really, wouldn’t it be a little boring if everything went down exactly as planned anyway?

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The Kindness of Strangers

Less than a year ago, I left my phone in the back seat of a Buenos Aires taxi.

After having spent a week at the spectacular Iguazu Falls on the border of Argentina and Brazil, my flight arrived at the domestic airport, Aeroparque in Buenos Aires. I needed to spend the night in a hotel near Aeropuerto Ezeiza, the international port for an early flight back to the States the next morning. This requires about an hour’s worth of drive time between the two sprawling facilities.

When I checked into the hotel and realized what had happened, I beat myself up for about a half a minute, shrugged, and wrote the thing off. In a busy, chaotic city of thirteen million strangers, any effort to locate the phone and have it returned would be futile.

Therefore, I was shocked when the driver returned a half an hour later with a smile and outreached hand with my phone its palm. He spoke no English and I would give my Spanish a charitable grade of serviceable at best. No matter. I gave him a sheepish, awkward hug and $60 US for his trouble.

The same sort of thing has happened in Reykjavik (a lost and returned credit card) and during my most recent trip to Barbados, when my phone, again, was lost and recovered in the Miami airport. Aside from my sometimes-careless nature and absentmindedness, these examples illustrate the very best of human nature – and not from established friends, mind you, but total strangers.

I dedicate this image, from my recent trip to Barbados, to these selfless folks. Dozens of wrong turns on unmarked or sometimes unnamed roads, aimless backtracking, and just being flat out lost were everyday occurrences. My reliance on storekeepers – and others – who cheerfully offered directions and a cool drink cannot be overstated or exaggerated. This image, as well as the others, could not be possible without their kindness.

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